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Sampling Japan in October 2008


Preparation

Tokyo Weather Forecast, Japan
Kyoto Weather Forecast, Japan
We've wanted to visit Japan for some time, but I was reluctant to go this year due to the economic outlook. We have an old time friend from college who now lives in Chiba, that we haven't met since she left Vietnam 18 years ago. She married into a Japanese family and her 3 kids can only speak Japanese. We were thinking of visiting her at some point during our trip, as Kisarazu where she lives now is 1 hour by Limited Express (特急 or とっきゅう) train from Tokyo station. However she graciously offered to drive us from and to Narita airport, and also invited us to stay with her family on weekends. This is very rare considering the intense private nature of the Japanese people.

Flight:  my wife finally won me over and we booked our flight the week after Labor Day, after intensive searches the weeks before found us a good deal through JTB and NWA.

Language: Right after our flights were booked, I started polishing my rusty Japanese that I haven't used since 1993 after attending a 2-year Japanese language school back in Saigon. I am not Chinese, so I have no help in cracking the Kanji characters, except for some basic words that I learned way back when. But I know Kana, so that helped tremendously. I plowed through a 6-part audio course on Japanese language available as online audio books in our local public library, each 5-7 hours long. This course gained me back enough basic skill to hopefully navigate the essential interactions getting train information, booking trains, ordering food and reading menus, reading street signs, and maybe maintain some cohesive and meaningful converstations with my friend's husband and children. All I learned back, I put them in a cheat sheet that I kept with me throughout the trip, and which I added to whenever I learned some new words or phrases.

Itinerary: this was the most difficult part of the planning phase. First time visitors like ourselves should not miss the 2 main cities of Tokyo and Kyoto, plus the symbolic Fuji-san area. Are we too ambitious? Then being garden lovers ourselves, we also wanted to visit at least 1 of the 3 most famous Japanese gardens. After much considerations, we decided on Kenroku-en in Kanazawa, which was 2 hours by Limited Express train from Kyoto. Ah, and it being October, we'd love to view the autumn color display, but this year had been exceptionally hot in Japan and the time we picked was a bit early for 紅葉 (autumn leave, こうよう) in the Tokyo-Kyoto-Fuji area, so the only option close enough to the North and at high enough elevation for this was Nikko.
So how could we bake all these ingredients into a 17-day visit? By sheer web research, talking to our friends, and intensive note-taking. We maintained a Google doc to keep all the notes, and kept distilling it, rearranging the items based on new info that we learned each day.
One great coincidence was that 3 days before our trips, 2 of our old friends from the days at the Japanese language school came to Seattle on vacation and we were able to hooked up. We learned some good tips from them especially the dress code (my wife especially appreciated this as you can guess ).

Eventually it looked like this:
  • First weekend: stay at our friend's house
  • First week: Tokyo, experiencing the bustling metropolis
  • Stay a Friday night at Kawaguchi-ko (lake Kawaguchi) for a quiet and peaceful contemplation of the beauty that is Mt Fuji
  • Second weekend: back to our friend's house for the Health and Sports Holiday (体育の日, or たいいくのひ), with a day trip to Nikko
  • Second week: Kyoto, with a day trip to Kanazawa to pay respect to the famous garden Kenroku-en.
  • Last weekend: relax at our friend's house, gift shopping and other things that we didn't find time to explore in the days prior.
Hotel: in parallel to researching places to visit, we planned for our hotel stays. This was also another difficult piece, since we had no idea how the hotel system worked over there, and many hotels' websites were still only in Japanese, especially if you wanted to stay at a ryokan. Many boutique hotels and ryokans still took reservations through fax or even snail mail. After sending multiple email requests, we finally got our reservations done, the last one only 1.5 weeks before departure. As you can see, we're pleased with our selections. We decided to skip the ryokan experience after our only preference, Rikiya, which doesn't serve dinner, didn't have a room with its own bath/restroom. Our reasonings for not shelling out money for the ryokan experience are:

  • Our stay in Kyoto was too long, and it gets expensive very fast at a ryokan
  • Sleeping on a futon, on tatami mat? Hey I grew up in Vietnam sleeping in similar settings for 26 years! 
  • Dinner eat-in every day? We would miss out on the local food scene 
  • Time restrictions: dinner and bath are served at a certain time, there are curfew, and we had too many things to see
As it turned out, it's one of the best decisions we made in this trip.

Another experience we decided to skip: the onsen. We're not fond of it (we ripped out and gave away the hot tub in our house some years ago), so we don't feel like we miss out on anything here. A warm extended soak in a foaming bath tub is much more pleasurable. And hey, our stay in Mt Fuji area had a private onsen too!

Navigation tools: 2 things you must have on you at all times: a good map book, and a compass. We bought the best one available on this side of the Pacific, the bilingual Tokyo City Atlas, with the intention of buying a Kyoto Dekkaji map book when we got to Kyoto. We also bought a Suunto M-9 wrist compass. As you can see later on, studying the map book ahead of time, learned the city layouts, how the addresses are structured, were essential to saving time later on location.

With everything finally arranged, we're ready.



Tips

  • Bring a good map book and a compass to help orient yourself in a strange setting. Tokyo and Kyoto have many small streets with no names, and the layout of Tokyo especially is not a grid so it's very easy to get lost. Also in the vast JR train stations, a compass helps you orient the direction you are going.
  • Cash is still the main way to pay for everything, so don't depend on your credit card. We never used our card the whole time, except for paying the hotel bills.
  • There is no tipping in Japan, and in restaurants you pay your bill at the cashier (this is also the norm for Asian restaurants)
  • Left is right: people drive on the left, so they also keep to the left when walking.
  • Smoking is still prevalent in Japan, so if you are a non-smoker, be very vigilant and check on your reservations to make sure your room is a non-smoking room, and when reserve a train seat, make sure to ask for a non-smoking car. If you are on a non-reserved train, seek out non-smoking cars only.
  • Leave your shampoo and soap at home. Unless you are very specific to a brand, the hotels supply very good quality and fragrant soap and shampoo for your use. Recently they switch to liquid soap to cut down on waste (which I like), and so they also include bath sponges. They also have disposable razor and shaving cream, as well as folded hair brushes!
  • At both places we stayed, the room has a thermos to boil water for tea and you can use it to boil eggs, blanch vegetables, make ramen, use your imagination.
  • The thermos can also be used to boil water that you can use during the day. Boil a pot at night and let it cool through the night and you have some water that you can put into bottles for day use. Then in the morning boil another pot, and let it cool during the day and you'll have drinking water for the evening
  • Drink lots of water. In the excitement of exploring and shopping, you tend to forget this. Traveling in a group help us keep each other reminded to drink water frequently. My wife was great on this.
  • On rainy days, stores have racks in front for customers to deposit their wet umbrellas so they won't drip all over the store. Some stores and hotels even have wrapping machines which, when you insert your umbrella and push a lever, will wrap your umbrella in a plastic pouch to prevent water from dripping when you have to bring your umbrella indoors. Others just have long and narrow plastic bags specifically for your umbrellas
  • Grocery shopping: unlike in America where the cashier will put your groceries in plastic/paper bags, in Japan you do it yourself: When you pay, the cashier asks how many plastic carrying bags you need. Say you need 3, you'll be given 3. After you pay, take your grocery to a bagging station where you find rolls and rolls of plastic bags which you then use to put individual items in if you need to, else you just put everything into the carrying bags that the cashier gave you earlier.
  • When time is of the utmost important and you have a schedule to meet, stick with trains/subway if you can. Buses, as is the case anywhere in the world, are dependant on road condition and traffic.

  • If you use the JR Pass, to go through the ticket gate you just need to show the pass to a station employee in the booth at one end of the ticket gate.
  • If you want to see the city from up high, go at dusk or at night, unless you have a really clear sky early in the morning (9:30am is the open time for the Tokyo Metropolitan observation deck). You can take more interesting photos at dusk/night when the city comes alive with lights. This was what we did in Tokyo as well as New York. But beware of glare reflected from inside the observatory, so bring a scarf, a lens hood, or have a helper to help you cover the lens. This was a problem with Tokyo, but in New York since we were allowed outside, it was not.
  • Know your camera: flash sometimes is not desirable, such as taking pictures of food, pictures in crowded places like train stations, trains, department stores. Thus use a mode that doesn't utilize flash, manually shut down your flash, set your ISO high enough (400) so that your camera doesn't need flash 
  • Set your camera time zone to the time zone in Japan, otherwise all your photos would have US time zone
  • Time is of the essence, so don't waste time nitpicking. Try to make the most of your days in Japan enjoying the experience
  • Don't be shy to use strangers for help, and don't be shy to try new things
  • Coin lockers in train stations are a great way to store your things for up to 3 days at a time. Most of these only accept „100 coins so make sure you have enough of them. There are 3 sizes: „300, „400 and „500, per 24-hour. This is a great way to help you going about light without having to lug around all your stuff if you don't need them. 
  • Shopping: in general you are not allowed to try on clothing items, so know your size (the JPN size, not the US size). Some stores may even block you from inspecting handbags etc.
  • Public restrooms don't have paper towels and few have air dryers. Carry a handkerchief with you to wipe your hands.
  • Trains can be crowded. For train trips longer than an hour, make reservations whenever possible. With JR Pass there really is no excuse not to; if your plan changed or you missed the train you can go on the next train without losing anything.
  • Don't assume the North is always on the top when viewing maps.  Look at this one and see where is the North.

Notes on the Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) 

JR Rail Pass
The Japan Rail Pass is a real bargain if you travel to more than 1 region. Initially we were unsure if we should get a 2-week pass or not, but after looking over our schedule, there was no doubt we had to get a 2-week pass, for traveling back and forth between Kisarazu and Tokyo, to go places in Tokyo, going to Kawaguchi-ko and back, going to Kyoto and back, and going to Kanazawa from Kyoto. Some of these trips were on Shinkansen (Super Express trains), and some were on Limited Express which was the only way if you wanted to save time. To calculate for yourself the cost of a one-way trip anywhere in Japan, use this website http://www.hyperdia.com/.
The way the fare structure is calculated is like this: there are 4 categories of trains, based on time benefit: local, rapid/express, limited express, and shinkansen (super express)
- a standard/basic fare is defined for each category. As you move up the ladder, it gets more expensive
- Limited Express and Shinkansen can have reserved seats, in that case you pay another extra fee to reserve a seat

Once you understand this, try calculating the ticket price for a sample trip using the website above, and you'll start to realize the cost benefit of the JR rail pass: it lets you use anything from the bottom rung (local train) to the top notch (shinkansen reserved seat), with NO additional charge. A one-way train ride from Tokyo to Kyoto with shinkansen (3 hours) costs „7980, with an additional „5240 for a reserved seat (priced as of October 24, 2008), for a total of „13220, or „26440 round trip. The Ordinary 1-week JR pass costs „28300, you do the math.


Dress Code

Never wear shorts, even in hot weather. Shorts are only appropriate on the beach.

Man
Over-dress is better than under-dress. T-shirts should be avoided in general unless it's part of an assemble. Shirts with neck such as a polo shirt is much better.
Pants and shoes.
Sandals again are more suitable on the beach.

Woman
Browse online Japanese fashion websites such as this one for an idea on how women dress in Tokyo if not Japan. It contains strong elements from the 80's, and you can see most women wear skirt and boot with stockings, though I saw several occasions of women wearing business pants. We rarely saw women in T-shirts, and you would see them stand out immediately. Wear what is appropriate for the season, meaning warmer autumn clothes are appropriate even if it's still hot outside.

If you want to learn the culture and the way of life in Japan, follow the crowd and dress nicely. Throw away all advices above if you don't mind standing out everywhere and love doing your own thing your own way. Nothing wrong with either approach, just what you want to achieve.


Timing, money exchange rate

There are 2 seasons most interesting in Japan: Hanami and Koyo.
- Hanami (flower viewing) is in spring when the sakura flowers bloom
- Koyo (autumn leave) is when the trees change color

Pick a season to go, research on the web to see when it's in season for the area you are going to visit. I know this is not an exact science and bookings usually must be arrange months in advance. Take my case: we wanted to see the autumn colors, and we booked 1 month in advance, but the time we picked was not optimal, since this year has been hotter than normal, in the 70s when we were there. So we worked with it by putting aside some time to travel to higher altitude or to the north to catch the earlier color changes. Also, Kyoto is usually 5 °C cooler than Tokyo. You can build in this flexibility because you have the JR Rail Pass.

The exchange rate between the USD and the Yen has been fluctuating wildly in September and October. Even though the USD has strengthened considerably during our stay, the Yen has risen even more, resulting in the USD losing value against the Yen. When we arrived the exchange rate at Narita was „102+, however by the time we checked again in Tokyo 10 days later the rate was down to „95+, then up a bit to „98+. Talking about where to get the best rate, our experience with the exchange offices in Narita and Tokyo was that you lost 3-5 Yen for each dollar, and American Express was not much difference, might be better by 1 Yen. It's a matter of convenience also, if you know a bank in Tokyo where you can get great rate, then go for it, but it's not worth spending time hunting for one. When vacationing, time is of the essence, so don't worry too much.